Fashion industry folks have a pretty bad habit of thinking that being a fashion capital is a concept to which only four cities in the entire world – New York, London, Milan, and Paris – can lay claim.
Surprise – it’s not true. We at Manic Metallic wrote a whole book on this a few years ago; Alternative Fashion Capitals is available for purchase by clicking here.
Two cities that we covered in Alternative Fashion Capitals were Berlin and Copenhagen. Here are a couple of pulled quotes from the book:
- Copenhagen is known for “Making sustainability an entire lifestyle – from transportation to their tendency to shop vintage and secondhand, the Danish are devoted to being environmentally friendly.”
- Berlin is known for “Having more creativity than most cities….Berlin also has a thriving sustainable fashion scene as well as a budding fashion-tech scene.”
That view of ours has tended to hold over the years, and the designers whose work we highlight below will attest to that. Additionally, before we get to that work, it’d be worth it to note a few things observed in viewing the shows in Berlin and Copenhagen:
- One thing that you start to notice Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) brands doing to maximize collections with fewer than 40 looks (often fewer than 30) is to maximize styling efforts on the runway – to great effect. Fewer looks force designers to hone their vision. In many of the buzzier fashion capitals (New York, Paris, etc), it is infrequent that shows pare back their runways to less than 40 looks. Part of the reason that CPHFW designers do this is to emphasize their commitment to sustainability, but it also has the added benefit of distilling the essence of the vision that the brand wants to get across in a given season.
- Copenhagen design proves that you can experiment while still having wearable clothes – and your show doesn’t end up turning into a circus, as some brands’ runways do in an attempt to make a statement and get a point across.
- Berlin’s designers display a commitment to creativity, individuality, and the avant-garde that is becoming increasingly rare in a commercially oriented global fashion industry. Designers in the German capital are still willing to inject an element of boundary-pushing into their work processes while still displaying loyalty to both sustainability and technological advancement. The fashion industry is richer for their efforts.
Berlin and Copenhagen have been putting out some of the fashion industry’s more compelling work for a few years now, and it’s time that we give them their due.
Copenhagen
Herskind
The outerwear featured at Herskind this season was exquisite. It is easy to tell that the fabrics are high quality just by looking at them. Additionally, the cut of the garments is impeccable, and the boots stand out as something sure to be on more than a few wishlists. Overall, it was a very well-balanced collection.
Munthe
Munthe’s design ethos of grounding their work in art is easily seen in their latest collection. The plush coats look irresistible – and would be especially so in cold Scandinavian climates. The sense of ease with which these looks are pulled together gives off an attractive nonchalance that says “I don’t have to try too hard to look good. I just am.” And by the looks of this runway, wide-legged jeans are still going strong.
The Garment
If one were poring over the latest collection by Creative Director Charlotte Eskildsen for The Garment, an overwhelming feeling of hip glamour would hit you like a train. For those who prefer a more elegant approach to dressing for a night (or day!) out on the town, you’ll find it here in spades. The Garment’s work is more modest from the standpoint of skin coverage, allowing both the craftsmanship of each look and the natural beauty of the wearer to shine through. Women of all ages would feel welcome wearing these sophisticated, but modern styles.
Gestuz
Upon seeing the women coming down the runway at Gestuz, you can sense the urban spunk that they carry with them. Whether it’s the oversized gold jewelry, relaxed fitting – but well-tailored – suits, or the alluring combinations of hard and soft or masculine and feminine, one thing is certain: this work is high style. But don’t let that fool you. These pieces are still very much in the realm of being approachable and wearable.
Berlin
Maria Chany
Maria Chany’s collection was the definition of avant-garde. Made in Belgrade, this work was both ambitious and innovative and seemed to be designed for an alternative princess. The Maria Chany woman is powerful and does not suffer fools gladly. One could easily picture someone like designer Michele Lamy wearing these pieces.
GmbH
The menswear presented by GmbH was superb, with the tailoring being top-notch. One thing to admire about co-founders Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Işık is their dedication to giving men clothing to choose from that maintains functionality while giving strokes of high fashion as well. This isn’t always the most common thing with men’s fashion, unfortunately. Looks from this collection would make wonderful gifts for anyone looking to buy a man in their life something special.
Marlon Ferry
Marlon Ferry’s experience in working with designer Iris van Herpen – as are his skills in using 3D printing to create garments – is readily apparent in this striking ten-piece collection. In combining his wide range of technology skills with his ability to craft pieces by hand, Ferry produced a cutting-edge suite of work befitting the most daring figures of the global arts and culture sphere. Or a queen of a fantasy kingdom. Or both. Either way, he is a designer to watch.
Maximilian Gedra
More than many designers seen so far this fashion season, Maximilian Gedra’s collection seemed committed to pushing the boundaries of what is considered acceptable with regard to silhouette. In the looks above, for example, the shoulders are extended upward well above the norm, acting as a way to protect the wearer while at the same time projecting strength outward and conferring it inward. These are strong designs, and we need more fashion designers devoted to the practice of experimentation these days in an era where the tyranny of practicality has come to rule over the art of creativity in many respects.
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